Chinese restaurants are decreasing in number, maybe.
By Jennifer 8. Lee | December 20, 2019
Front-page article in The New York Times by Amelia Nierenberg and Quoctrung Bui about how Chinese restaurants are declining both in relative and absolute number in major metropolitan areas (based on Yelp data).
The hypothesis is basically that the children don’t want to take over the restaurants and there aren’t an additional way of Chinese immigrants (e.g. the Fujianese) who can take over. As I said restauranteurs told me, “We cook so our children don’t have to.” And the children don’t have to.
Also fun fact about this article, there are two Jennifer Lees interviewed in the piece. One is me. The other is Jennifer Lee, a professor of sociology at Columbia University and co-author of “The Asian American Achievement Paradox.” As the Times put it, “She is not related to Jennifer 8. Lee.”
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Chef Peng, creator of General Tso’s chicken, passes away
By Jennifer 8. Lee | December 2, 2016
I knew this day was going to come. And in fact as surprised how long he lasted, since we rushed to film him for our documentary when he was 91.
But Chef Peng, our famed creator of General Tso’s chicken passed away at age 97. I was in the middle of the Nieman Foundation board meeting when I started getting bombarded by emails and phone calls for interviews.
The best obit was by Washington Post’s Emily Langer. I was a bit disappointed that The New York Times had to cite the Associated Press for his death
Topics: Chinese, Chinese Food, General Tso, The Search for General Tso | No Comments »
Harley Spiller’s Giant Chinese Menu Collection Going to University of Toronto
By Jennifer 8. Lee | February 3, 2016
Big news in menu world. Harley Spiller’s immense Chinese menu collection (and an indirect inspiration for my book) is going to the University of Toronto. He sold it for $40,000, which may sound like a lot. But actually isn’t if you consider there are 10,000 items in it.
I thought it might go to the NYPL. But alas.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Chinese food emoji proposed by me and Yiying Lu
By Jennifer 8. Lee | January 30, 2016
Yiying Lu and I proposed a slate of Chinese food-related emoji, including takeout box, dumpling, fortune cookie and chopsticks. To be sure, the fortune cookie and takeout box emoji are actually more American in symbols than Chinese.
This all started when Yiying Lu and I were puzzled by lack of a dumpling emoji, decided to do something about it — then others kind of rolled in. Lots of coverage, including Eater, Mic, Buzzfeed.
If I am honest, I don’t think fortune cookie would have made it on its own merits, but it can ride the coat-tails of the others.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Fortune Cookies on 99% Invisible
By Jennifer 8. Lee | September 24, 2015
A fun episode about fortune cookies featured on 99% Invisible, produced by Avery Trufelman. So much fun to be interviewed for this.
Really important how they focused on the Japanese internment during World War II.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
The Search for General Tso. In Theaters January 2, 2015!
By Jennifer 8. Lee | December 4, 2014
Happy to say that The Search for General Tso has been acquired by IFC/Sundance for distribution and will be in theaters (and VOD) on January 2, 2015.
Director Ian Cheney did a great job of shepherding through the film, which was repped by Cinetic Media, of indie film fame.
Here is the trailer below.
Plus the official movie poster!
Topics: Chinese Food, General Tso, Multimedia, The Search for General Tso | No Comments »
“The Search for General Tso” Will Premiere at the Tribeca Film Festival
By Jennifer 8. Lee | March 24, 2014
I’m excited to announce that “The Search for General Tso”, a documentary that I have been working on with director Ian Cheney, is going to be premiering at The Tribeca Film Festival. This is a long project in the making. It’s been four years since I first met Ian Cheney and Cur
“Search” has three showings: April 19 at 3:30 p.m., April 20 at 3 p.m. and April 24 at 9 p.m.
As Ian Hollander writes in the official film guide:
From New York City to the farmlands of the Midwest, there are around 50,000 Chinese restaurants in the U.S. While there can be quite a range of Chinese-American dishes, one in particular seems to have conquered the American culinary landscape with a force befitting its military moniker—“General Tso’s Chicken.” Walk into any Chinese restaurant in the country and you can be fairly certain you’ll be rewarded with a plate of this sweet and sticky fried chicken—seemingly just spicy enough for the American palate. But how did this dish reach such levels of ubiquity and who was General Tso in the first place? This delightfully insightful documentary seeks to uncover the origins of a dish that Americans have warmly adopted as their own. As director Ian Cheney journeys to Shanghai and Hunan, it becomes increasingly clear that the answers lie much closer to home, as the story of General Tso’s Chicken becomes inextricably linked to the story of Chinese Americans’ own search to define their identity.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Authentic Indian “Schezwan” Dishes
By Jennifer 8. Lee | April 30, 2013
Narayan Venkatasubramanyan (that’s an awesome last name) sent me a link to a popular Indian company called Ching’s Secret, which sells Chinese dishes to prepare at home, including Schezwan dishes.
In English we spelled ?? as Szechwan or Szechuan, now Sichuan in pingyin. But in Indian the spelling went a bit awry. As he explains it,
When the taste of that province was introduced in India, some Indian decided that it was silly to add a “z” after an “s”, decided it was some horrible misspelling, and “corrected” the spelling to the more logical-looking “Schezwan.” and then proceeded to pronounce it as it was written. these days, India is full of restaurants with menus with “Schezwan sauce” and diners who loudly demand the “authentic” shay-zwan flavour.
Topics: Global Chinese Food | No Comments »
This Guy Has Eaten in More Chinese Restaurants Than I Have!
By Jennifer 8. Lee | April 23, 2013
The Los Angeles Times has a feature on David Chan (@chandavkl)who has eaten in over 6,000 Chinese restaurants, and has a ginormous Excel spreadsheet to prove it. Though his list starts in 1955, which is decades before spreadsheets were even invented.
The coolest part is the time-step map over the years, which plots all the restaurants in the Los Angeles area he has eaten at. It which is made possible because he has kept such meticulous records (including the addresses). Data visualization + Chinese restaurants. One of my favorites.
I’m going to guess I might have eaten in Chinese restaurants in more countries than he has, but he certainly wins on the sheer numbers.
Topics: Chinese Restaurants | No Comments »
An $888 dish at Hakkasan, New York
By Jennifer 8. Lee | April 4, 2012
Hakkasan, the London-based luxury Chinese chain I went to for my book, opened up a New York City location.
It’s high end. The New York space is 11,000 square feet and seats 200.
Most entrees are $22 to $88. But one dish is $888 for Japanese abalone with black truffle.
It’s located in Times Square, 311 West 43rd Street, (212) 776-1818.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Jeremy Lin’s head over a Chinese fortune cookie. On MSG’s TV.
By Jennifer 8. Lee | February 16, 2012
MSG now regrets putting up a graphic of Jeremy Lin’s head over the broken fortune cookie. Almost inevitable. But still, I think someone must have thought this was a good idea. And no one thought maybe it wasn’t. On television is the strangest part.Â
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Chinese Takeout Boxes are All-American
By Jennifer 8. Lee | January 18, 2012
The New York Times Magazine has a piece by Hilary Greenbaum and Dana Rubenstein on how Chinese takeout boxes are uniquely American (Chinese takeout boxes are all but unknown in China) My favorite fact that they dug up:
On Nov. 13, 1894, in Chicago, the inventor Frederick Weeks Wilcox patented a version of what he called a “paper pail,†which was a single piece of paper, creased into segments and folded into a (more or less) leakproof container secured with a dainty wire handle on top.
Impressed that they dug that up. In my research, I did not stumble across that fun, fun fact.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
My research is now part of the Smithsonian’s permanent collection.
By Jennifer 8. Lee | October 26, 2011
I stopped by the American history museum of the Smithsonian and was superexcited to see three objects that I have encountered in my research were now on exhibit and part of the museum’s permanent collection
The kata grills from Gary Ono, which were used to make superearly fortune cookies in the Japanese Tea Garden in the San Francisco Golden Gate Park.
What could be the oldest American fortune cookies still in existence (50 years old!), an unopened can of “fortune tea cakes” from Hong Kong Noodle in Los Angeles, donated by Merlin Lowe, and a hat to go with it.
Here is the little museumy write up that went below it, that makes it superreal.
Topics: Chinese Food, Fortune Cookies | No Comments »
Spoke at the National Archives on Oct. 26
By Jennifer 8. Lee | October 26, 2011
I spoke at the National Archives today. That’s right, the same building as Constitution, Bill of Rights, Declaration of Independence! It was part of the “What’s Cooking? Uncle Sam” exhibit, which examines the federal government’s impact on the American diet.
The building:
And the little sign for the talk.
Update: The chief of research offered to pull up the Chinese Exclusion Act next time I’m in town. How cool is that?
Topics: Appearances, Chinese Food | No Comments »
Speaking at the National Archives on October 26
By Jennifer 8. Lee | October 1, 2011
I’m speaking at the National Archives on October 26 in the William G. McGowan Theater as part of their ongoing series looking at food.
Topics: Appearances | No Comments »
General Tso’s Nachos
By Jennifer 8. Lee | August 2, 2011
This is amazing. General Tso’s nachos. He’s gone south of the border.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Certificates from California Senate, Assembly + San Francisco Board of Supervisors
By Jennifer 8. Lee | April 13, 2011
I got these certificates in the mail yesterday. Superfun.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Star Trek Meets Chinese Food: Make it Tso
By Jennifer 8. Lee | April 7, 2011
Sent to me by David Lefer.
Topics: General Tso | No Comments »
From a UCLA Asian American studies professor
By Jennifer 8. Lee | April 1, 2011
I got a lovely note from an Asian American studies professor at UCLA. It’s exciting to think of the book as a “staple.”
I am writing to say how much my students and I enjoy your wonderful book. Â It has become a staple reading in a seminar I teach on Asian American history through foodways. Â From your fortune-cookie detective work to the mysteries of General Tso’s chicken, to the plight of Chinese restaurant families and deliverymen, your book helps readers to think more deeply about things we take for granted. Your interwoven exploration of second-generation issues particularly resonates for many students who are the children of immigrants and refugees.
Hope your writing and food adventures are going well! Â Looking forward to your next project.
Topics: Reader Feedback | No Comments »
Chinatown Street Food Tour on Saturday, April 2 and 3 for $88
By Jennifer 8. Lee | March 20, 2011
More update. To sign up for announcements of future food tours, sign up below
Update! I’m adding an additional tour on April 3, at 2 p.m. Meet at 215 Centre Street inside the lobby of the Museum of Chinese in America. Donate $88 to the workshop at aaww.org/donate and forward the receipt to jenny[at]jennifer8lee[dot]com with a note if you are vegetarian or have other dietary restrictions.
***
I’m doing a walking tour of New York City Chinatown street food as part of the Kickstarter fundraiser for the Asian American Writers Workshop last fall. It’s a ~2.5 hour tour that includes (depending on availability) Xi’an Famous Foods, Chinatown Ice Cream Factory, Xinjiang skewers, banh mi, pulled noodles and more. It’s an $88 donation to the workshop.
Must be willing to share portions. Please wear comfortable shoes. Meet Saturday, April 2 at 2 p.m. in front of the Chinatown’s Museum of Chinese in America at 215 Centre Street. There is also possibility of adding April 3 if there is enough demand. Food costs included in the tour.
Donate $88 to the workshop at aaww.org/donate and forward the receipt to jenny[at]jennifer8lee[dot]com witha note if you are vegetarian or have other dietary restrictions. Also say if you prefer April 2 or 3 (We’re not sure about April 3 yet)
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Fortune Cookie Baby Booties Inspired by Book
By Jennifer 8. Lee | March 16, 2011
My friend, Barbara Martinez, alerted me to the fact that my appearance on Martha Stewart inspired her to create the baby booties. (click on the booties, annoying that they don’t have an individual link to each finalist.)
Here is what she writes (she got the middle initial wrong, but whatevs).
Della S.
Oregon City, OR
I came up with my ReMarthable idea when I was watching the Martha Stewart Show a couple years ago when Jennifer B.Lee was on explaining the origins of fortune cookies. I make Japanese inspired crafts, sushi baby booties, and sushi ornaments. I wanted to keep with the Japanese theme, so when I heard on the show that fortune cookies originated in Japan, a light clicked on and Fortune cookie booties were born! They are made from a simple kimono style pattern, very easy to demonstrate. The fortunes are made from printable canvas, I have made these from brown re-purposed sweaters or fleece. I also make adult sizes.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
Smithsonian’s Sweet and Sour Chinese Exhibition
By Jennifer 8. Lee | March 10, 2011
The Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History is presenting a Chinese American display, Sweet & Sour, opening March 17, 2011 (two days after my birthday!) in the lobby. I helped a bit with linking them together with the items, including the original Japanese kata that were used to grill some of the first fortune cookies in America.
The project brings together many Chinese restaurant-related objects ranging from menus, restaurant signs, and cooking tools. Well worth a stop! The museum is located at 4th Street and Constitution Ave, NW
Washington, DC 20004.
More from the Voice of America.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
My award from Chinese Restaurant News
By Jennifer 8. Lee | February 22, 2011
Influential personalities in restaurant industry.
Topics: Chinese Food | No Comments »
My book in Berkeley Ethnic Studies library.
By Jennifer 8. Lee | February 19, 2011
Yay.
Topics: Chinese Food, History | No Comments »
Fortune Cookie Seating
By Jennifer 8. Lee | February 17, 2011
Shin Azumi for Lapalma has designed a fortune cookie-shaped chair which was presented at Imm Cologne 2011, though there has been some controversy about it since then.
According to Swiss Miss, it is built from a single sheet of plywood. While it looks fragile, it’s actually incredibly stable, thanks to the clever weight distribution achieved via a specifically shaped contact area with the floor.
It probably wasn’t purposely fortune cookie shaped, but the resemblance reminds us just how elegant the fortune cookie shape is.
Topics: Fortune Cookies | No Comments »